Adam Ondra Goes Ground-Up No-Chalk on Sandstone 5.14b
Adam Ondra recently visited Saxony to sample some of the area鈥檚 historic sandstone climbing, including the test-piece route Die Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten (XIIa / 8c / 5.14b) ground鈥憉p and without chalk. Ondra said after, 鈥淲hat started as doubt turned into one of the most meaningful climbing experiences I鈥檝e had.鈥 Climbers are prohibited from using chalk and metal equipment (cams or nuts). Protection can only be slings tied into knots or ring-bolts drilled from a stance or a skyhook, which can鈥檛 be used less than three metres above the previous piece. Also, climbers can鈥檛 rehearse projects on top rope. Ondra鈥檚...
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