On April 6, Jules Marchaland achieved a significant milestone by topping Ephyra V16 in Chironico, Ticino, Switzerland. This climb came after just three sessions, marking Marchaland's first ascent of this grade after previously flashing V14 last August. Initially known for his prowess in sport climbing, Marchaland described the experience as an 鈥渦nexpected send鈥� on Instagram, reflecting on his struggle to link the moves until the final attempt when he successfully topped out. Ephyra was first conquered by Jimmy Webb in 2019, featuring a notably challenging lateral move; however, opinions on its grade's accuracy vary among climbers.

By the Numbers
  • Marchaland took three sessions to complete Ephyra V16.
  • He is the second climber to flash V14, achieving this feat in August 2025.
  • In 2025, Marchaland climbed a total of at least nine 5.14ds and two 5.15as.
State of Play
  • Marchaland has established himself as a formidable climber in both bouldering and sport climbing.
  • Debates continue about the grading of Ephyra, with some suggesting it may be easier than V16.
  • He has multiple significant climbs lined up, showcasing his rapidly growing skillset.
What's Next

Following his success with Ephyra, Marchaland is expected to continue tackling high-grade climbs, as he aims to further solidify his reputation in both bouldering and sport disciplines. The community will closely watch his future ascents to see if he can maintain this trajectory of achievement.

Bottom Line

Jules Marchaland's ascent of Ephyra V16 not only marks a personal landmark but also contributes to the ongoing dialogue about climbing grades. His performance underscores the evolving nature of climber capabilities, inviting both admiration and scrutiny in equal measure.