Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau have successfully established a new alpine route, named Heavy is the Hand, on the south face of Mount Dickey in the Alaska Range. The 1,500-meter route is graded at WI6+ M6+ A1 and involves a challenging iced corner system that Rousseau identified 15 years prior. Over two days, the climbers experienced sustained, difficult conditions, making it one of the most taxing ice routes they've encountered. Rousseau noted the special significance of this climb after a long wait for favorable conditions, emphasizing the steepness and inherent dangers of the route.

By the Numbers
  • 1,500 meters in length for the new route Heavy is the Hand.
  • Graded at WI6+ M6+ A1, highlighting its technical difficulty.
State of Play
  • The climbers are recognized as elite figures in alpine climbing, having established multiple significant routes in Alaska.
  • Previous notable ascents by the team include Aim for the Bushes (AI6 M6 X, 1,600 m) in 2022 and Roundtrip Ticket (AI5+ M7, 2,700 m) in the Himalayas.
What's Next

The trio is likely to continue exploring and climbing other challenging routes in extreme conditions, further solidifying their legacy in the alpine climbing community.

Bottom Line

The successful ascent of Heavy is the Hand showcases the climbers鈥� dedication, experience, and resilience in overcoming extreme challenges, marking a significant milestone in their climbing careers.