Three skilled alpinists, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, have successfully climbed a new ice route on Mount Dickey in Alaska, which they graded at WI6+ M6+ A1 and named 鈥淗eavy is the Hand.鈥� This 1,500-meter climb features a sustained iced corner system that Rousseau encountered 15 years ago. Over two days, the climbers tackled what Rousseau declared as possibly the most challenging ice route of his career. Their achievement adds to their impressive climbing history, including previous established routes on the same mountain.

By the Numbers
  • 1,500 meters long
  • Graded at WI6+ M6+ A1
  • 16 continuous pitches climbed
Yes, But

Despite the route's beauty and challenge, the climbers faced harsh conditions, including significant melting during the day and sparse protection, which posed risks to their ascent.

State of Play
  • The newly established route highlights the climbers' accomplishments in a region known for its difficult terrain.
  • Contingent weather conditions are required for successful climbs, influencing future ascents in the area.
What's Next

The team may explore further ascents in the Alaska Range, given their experience and familiarity with local formations, potentially leading to more challenging routes.

Bottom Line

The successful climb of "Heavy is the Hand" not only showcases the climbers' expertise but also reinforces the allure and risk associated with high-stakes ice climbing.